|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Monday, August 14, 2006 |
|
Dealing With Boat Veer
By Stacy @ 2:20 PM :: 1014 Views ::
0 Comments :: Technique
|
|
Dealing With Boat Veer
Courtesy of Chris Joosee. Visit his site at ChrisJ's Big Page O' Paddling Stuff.
It happens to us all, but it's most frustrating for
beginners- that maddening tendency for your boat, which was pointed in the direction you wanted it to go, to inexplicably veer off
to one side or the other, out of control and taking you with it.
This is common, and with practice you develop tricks for recognizing
this damnable veer and getting it under control before it becomes an
issue. This article will help you to understand what causes veer,
and will also give you a couple of tips on how to correct it.
First, all whitewater boats veer.
They veer because they're engineered to turn easily.
What this also means is that in order to go in a straight line, you need
to keep the boat more or less in that 'balance' spot where it's not
veering to either side too terribly much- the fact is that the boat
doesn't want to go in a straight line... it's always in a state
of veer so long as you're moving against water. :-)
Common reasons for veer:
- Your forward stroke may be too long
- Your forward stroke may be uneven from hand to hand
- It's possible that you're canting your hips to one
side but not the other
- It's possible that you're dealing with outside
forces like current or wind.
Your forward stroke may be too long: The forward stroke begins by
your feet and ends at your hips. Anything you do behind your
hips with the paddle blade has increased torque to turn the boat, so
unless you are correcting or introducing veer on purpose, there's no
need to pull your stroke much behind your hip. Conversely, if you
want to overcome veer, a wide paddle stroke on the side you're veering
towards, followed by a finishing draw stroke far to the stern on that
same side will pull your stern back in line with your veering bow.
Your forward stroke may be too wide:
A vertical paddle shaft will cause you to turn the boat less than a
tilted one- remember, the farther out your blade is, the more rotational
leverage you have against your boat's center of rotation- again, useful
for introducing or correcting veer, but not useful for going in a
straight line.
You may be applying power at the wrong time in your
stroke: If you look at the physical mechanics of your stroke,
you'll see that it's very difficult to push directly back once your
paddle has gone past your hip- your paddle is no longer vertical and the
rotation of your torso virtually guarantees that you'll be introducing
some directional change to the boat, meaning that if you begin your
stroke easy and finish it with a lot of power, you're applying power at
just the right moment to initiate boat veer. Conversely, if you
begin your stroke with a lot of power and finish it lightly, you're much
less likely to inadvertently introduce any strange directional voodoo
into the equation.
Your forward stroke may be uneven from hand to hand: If you're
like the rest of us, you're stronger with one hand than the other.
Feel out the strength of your weaker hand and make your strokes the same
power on both sides. Also, pay attention to the angle of your
paddle shaft from one side to the other- if your forward stroke is
flatter on one side than it is on the other, you're stroking wider on
one side, and introducing more veer with one side than you are with the
other.
It's possible that you're canting your hips to one
side but not the other: If your boat has chines, play around with what happens when you drop a
rail- not only is this good balance exercise, it also gives you a 'keel'
of sorts- useful for introducing and/or correcting veer to a limited
extent. it's also good practice to separate the movements of
your upper and lower body, so that they can move independently of each
other. :-)
It's possible that you're dealing with outside
forces like current or wind. When you pull your boat
through the water, you create turbulence- you're pushing a bow wave of
water, you're pulling a suction wave behind you, etc. The goal is
to keep these forces in balance from side to side, but it takes very
little outside force to upset that balance- notice that 'flatwater' near
the sides of the river is actually not still- it's moving more slowly on
one side of you than on another, and as such your pressure wave will be
interacting with different forces on your left and on your right, even
though an actual eddyline isn't visible.
You'll notice that as you try to go faster and faster on flatwater, the
boat will be more and more prone to veer- again, probably a function of
the design of most boats, although it's likely that as we speed up we do
interesting things to our strokes that aren't necessarily good. Also,
as you get that bow wave built up, the forces pushing against your bow
get stronger, meaning you end up having less time in which to arrest
them easily- once the boat gets into a slide, it's hard to get back into
balance without scrubbing most or all of your speed.
So What do I do about it?
When your bow shanks off in one direction, against
your will, you've got a few options:
- Go with it. Act like you meant to go
there. :-) Probably not the best thing, but sometimes it's fun.
- Push your bow back straight with a wide
forward stroke on the same side as the veer. This sometimes
works, especially with shorter boats... but not always.
Remember, your boat will go straight as long as the pressure of
oncoming water is balanced evenly on both sides- and when you're
veering, the bow pressure is imbalanced. Your stroke will have
to be powerful enough to equalize the push of water on the opposite
side of the bow.
- Pull your stern in line with your bow using
a sweep/stern draw: If your wide forward stroke is not
powerful enough, continue this stroke towards the far stern and draw
the paddle blade towards the stern. What will actually happen
is that you will pull your stern back in line with your bow.
This is a powerful turning stroke.
- Scrub your speed by braking on the opposite side.
If retaining your speed is not as important as controlling the
direction you're pointing, the most powerful option you have is to
put in a reverse stroke on the side opposite your veer.
This gets easier with practice and in time you'll forget that the boat
wants to do this. generally, I've found that flat-hulled
boats are very prone to veer, but also easier to correct than round
ones. By the same token, short boats veer easily, but are
more easily corrected than their longer brethren, which tend to track
comparatively well but recover poorly from veer.
One thing to keep in mind when dealing with veer is that if you always
keep an active paddle blade in the water, you'll always have a way to
deal with it, hopefully before it becomes an issue. This may
sound obvious, but it's the honest truth- find a way to keep one blade
in the water, active at all times, and you'll find yourself in better
control of your boat. As you begin to play with draws and
other traveling strokes, this will make a lot more sense. If
you haven't, definitely watch S.O.A.R. for Ken Whiting's tips on draws,
or if possible, take a clinic from the likes of Eric Jackson or Ken
Whiting or Sam Drevo or Jason Bates
or Corran Addison- they're all good teachers whose input will change the way you
paddle.
|
|
|
|
|
| Comments |
Currently, there are no comments. Be the first to post one! You must be logged in to post a comment. You can login here
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|